2008 PARIS

2008 AUGUST 26 TUESDAY
Paris

We flew from Southampton to Paris in one hour; a small turbo prop; it then took us 3 hours to get baggage and the RER train to Montparnasse and then a Metro to Gaite. . .right next to our hotel on Rue du Maine; it’s a renovated old hotel into a sort of minimalist boutique style and now a Holiday Inn. Stella got a deluxe king room on the top floor for free using points from previous hotel stays. Our first task was showering and napping.

Then it was out for a walk on the town. The French are known to be late diners, so lots of places were open. We were both surprised by the number of Japanese restaurants. One place advertised itself as Korean BBQ but the items were all Japanese. By the time we found a place we liked, it was 11pm; we ate at a little café between two legendary giants of the Paris dining scene – Le Dome and La Coupole – called chez Clement. I had been looking forward to the onion soup at La Coupole but alas, Stella took a liking to the offerings at chez Clement….and it turned out to be an excellent choice. Stella had duck sausages and I know this sounds funny, but very wondrous mashed potatoes and gravy, and an orangina drink. I had swordfish, prawns and salmon with the same wondrous mashed potatoes….and a single glass of Alsatian white wine. The desserts were totally appealing but we had eaten our fill and had to pass them up. We then ambled back to the hotel in shirtsleeve weather, very pleasant. The street scenes, as always in Paris, were gay and busy with lots of sidewalk dining/drinking/snacking.

2008 AUGUST 27 WEDNESDAY
Paris

This morning I took a first good look from our hotel window and was surprised that we can see the Pantheon, Sacre Coeur and within a block, the Montparnasse Cemetery. There are many other large buildings and churches, etc, that I don’t know the names …. quite a view.

We had read that there were new laws in Paris about no smoking and cleaning up after dogs but knowing the arrogance of the Parisian’s love to smoke, and the love of their dogs we both doubted there would be much of a change. However, compared to the last time we were here, we’re happy to note how relatively pristine the streets are now. It was one of the things that my fastidious wife disliked about Paris…having to keep a constant eye out for poop and navigating around it. Now I think she loves Paris almost as much as I do! And yes, the no smoking seems to be working just fine also.

By the time Stella got up and we were ready to head out, it was 9:00. The morning was a bit foggy and cool. We ambled about the blocks nearby, looking at restaurants along the way for a breakfast that caught our eye, but didn’t spot anything tempting. So we jumped on the Metro and went to a neighborhood known for cute shops, markets, and cafes along rue Cler. We had read about a creperie that was recommended in one of our travel books on that street…it sounded like a good idea…what could be more French than crepes? The Ulysses turned out to be a small Greek eatery with about 6 tables outside and a few more inside. Stella had a vegetarian crepe that was filled with mushroom, onions, tomato, bell peppers and cheese. I had their special…it had 3 kinds of cheese, onions, tomato and bell peppers, topped with two fried eggs. Both of our meals also came with a side of green salad. The crepes were delicious!

We spent the rest of the afternoon at a war museum that houses the tomb of Napoleon II, Field Marshall Foch and other military dignitaries, and stuff like cannons, rifles, uniforms and other related paraphernalia. The travel guides said about 3 hours for men and ‘maybe’ about 2 for women – Stella took the mans time tour with me. They had an awesome selection of rifles from the first to WW2 use, and miniature soldiers, cavalry, etc, from the caveman to WW2. There was a great selection of real footage, sometimes no sound and sometimes hard to see. Also, a lot of info and paraphernalia relating to the chemical warfare of WW2. After wards, we took the metro back to our hotel with the intent of catching a nap and then heading back out, but that plan fell through…after zzzz-ing, we were too lazy and tired to get dressed and go out again.

2008 AUGUST 28 THURSDAY
Paris

We decided we should make the most of our last day in Paris and set out “early” – 8:45 for Stella – and we were on the Metro back to Rue Cler where we had spotted a cute breakfast place a few doors down from yesterday’s creperie. Breakfast in France is termed “petit dejeuner” – Stella had the French version (orange juice, hot tea, croissant and jam) while I had the American version which was the same as the French but with an additional plate of sliced ham, egg over easy, and a slice of tomato. There are none anywhere as good as the croissants in France….so light and buttery. They may be bad for your health but make your mouth so happy!

From there, we hopped back on the Metro to see the Statue of Liberty. Ever since we saw the movie “National Treasure” featuring Nicholas Cage, and Stella learned that there was one in Paris, she’s wanted to see it. We spotted it as soon as we stepped out onto the street from the train station. It was on a small isle near a bridge on the Seine river about two city blocks away….looked like about half or two-thirds the size of ours. We managed to get a few good shots and then left for the Eiffel Tower.

As always, there were gaggles of people and long lines for tickets there. We were tempted to join them, but alas, there was still much that we wanted to do and see. Besides, we have been up the tower and seen the awesome view of Paris both day and night on previous trips, so we skipped that and headed for the bus stop nearby. According to one of our travel books, the #69 route is particularly interesting and scenic. We jumped on and sat in the back so we could have a view of both sides of the street. Besides the sights, it was interesting to watch the bus driver maneuver thru the narrow streets that were sometimes parked with cars on both sides and taxi’s cutting in and out and the delivery vehicles blocking, but they all seem to get out of the way when the bus horn blares, and it is a blare! Sometimes he was literally just inches away! We wondered how many wrecks they average over a month.

We left the bus at blvd St Germaine and window shopped and people gooped … this area is known for its furniture stores, both antiques and ultra chic modern, both home and office. There were many interior design consultants available by appointment only. Such was also the case for several watch and jewelry stores. At Les Deux Magots (well known French café) we stopped for the obligatory drinks at an outside table to watch all the people….and again, we were not disappointed!

Did you see or read THE DA VINCI CODE? Well, our next stop was St Sulpice cathedral ….and we found the Rose Line and the dark corner where the monk/assassin did a rubbing for clues, etc. There are also schematics and narratives detailing the lens in the window and the line it casts as the sun moves at the summer equinox (I think) delineating the time/rose line, a true north south line, across the nave of the chapel. Of course the Rose Line is a curiosity only – as the GMT is now the official delineation. The Louvre was typically, and impossibly, crowded place so we did not go there, maybe next time when we plan to stay a week, at least!!

I do not remember the extent of the graffiti that exists in the suburbs of Paris….along the Metro and RR tracks, and to some extent, even within Paris. But, all in all, the Paris metro is great for getting around fast and to nearly all locations. They are also at the once, lively and gross and entertaining – as Stella says, “tell them about the ugly guys who got on with the obnoxious boom box and tried to rap dance, gross”. I agree with her. On one segment there was someone playing a sax and another time, a violin. The latter two weren’t bad. After they “perform”, they go thru the cars with a plastic cup in hand for donations and then they jump off at the next stop and change cars.

Well, anyway, after St Sulpice we entered Le Jardin du Luxembourg – this is clearly a place we have to go back and plan several hours. Think huge with tennis courts, artsy sculptures, marble statues, swings and pony rides for the kiddies, whole forests of trees, huge lawns, a fountain/pool with kids doing the sailboats, flowers flowers everywhere, spice and herb gardens, a museum and an art building that displays rotating collections. By the time we got there, it was late afternoon and the weather had turned cloudy (not conducive for good pictures) and chilly (not conducive for a happy Opal). However, the gardens were still so beautiful that we wandered them for about an hour until Opal sort of ‘froze up’ and then we made a high speed run for the border (our hotel so Opal could get her jacket and be fed).

We found a very charming and elegant “Japonaise” restaurant with a French-ized menu – basically Japanese, but modified a bit for the French tastes. Many sushi dishes were made atop a delicate French cracker/pastry in lieu of rice. Instead of Hinode or similar, they served Jasmine rice – probably easier and cheaper to get than the Japanese varieties. And all featured a lot of different brochettes. Besides the familiar yakitori, they had salmon, cheese wrapped in beef, and chicken meatballs…all on skewers. Also, the shoyu was sweet, not salty.
Then it as back to the room for some packing rearrangements and off to bed

2008 AUGUST 29 FRIDAY
Paris & Return to Southampton

We decided to have petit dejeuner near the hotel before departing for the long trek to the airport on the Metro and train. Stella tried valiantly to communicate her choices for the French version and the American version to more directly fit her needs, as the waiter appeared to understand English, but all she accomplished was to get two French versions, mine with ham and cheese omelet and hers a ham omelet….everything else the same, except she got NO TEA! Was hilarious to see her face when he set the food down in front of us! This one tho was a bit better than yesterday’s meal, in addition to the wondrous croissants we got about a 6” piece of totally fresh baguette! And the strawberry jam was superb!

Then off to the airport and the short flight back to Southampton. The ride on the 60-seater prop was surprisingly smooth.

For dinner, neither of us could face the prospect of eating at our hotel so we decided to take a walk about and eat at a local country pub, the Southampton Arms. We shared an appetizer of a small avocado and Cajun chicken salad. It was good and we thought an indication of better things to come. I had the mixed grill -- blood sausage, venison sausage, rump steak, gammon (thick English bacon) and a pork chop with peas and chips. Stella had a broccoli and cream cheese bake with garlic bread. But we were wrong. If not for the appetizer, the meal was forgettable. Oh well…

We took a pleasant stroll back to our hotel. Time to pack and get ready for our next adventure…our cruise tomorrow on the Sea Princess!