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2008 MAY 17
We enjoyed our final meal at the
9:30, we were off the ship to find our luggage and thru customs and into a cab on our way to the Holiday Inn Select next to
Stella unpacked and diddled about for awhile, and then we headed out for a walkabout in Quartier Chinois. Everything seemed pretty much the same from last year except now it was much warmer….a beautiful day with clear blue skies and a few tufts of innocuous looking white clouds. We went to the Metro station (just across the street from the hotel) to take the subway (rubber wheels but the same or more noise than the steel on steel of
At Sherbrook we waddled over to
We wasted time, walking languorously in the warm sun and enjoying the beautiful day, wandering in and out of shops ranging from kitchen/hardware to a small grocery store. The whole time our mission was to arrive at Schwartz’s around 4. Last year it was about that time we first tried this Alan-Sasai-recommended- establishment and it was not that crowded in the off hour between lunch and dinner. In my blog last year you might recall that Opal fell in love with Schwartz’s and their great smoked meat. In fact, ever since we booked the cruise 9 months ago and she knew that we would be back in
However, to her credit she restrained herself and kept a modest waddling pace as we walked along Boulevard Saint-Laurent towards her sandwich. I attempted to tempt her with other choices as we walked along, Thai places (normally her favorite), with Italian places (her second favorite)….but she stayed the course. Perhaps it was the combination of the almost end of the long wait and the distraction of other eateries, but when she saw the sign, it was as tho she went external and floated over the crowded sidewalk, the last half block flashed by as we got to Schwartz’s. Even tho the plan was to wait until 3 or 4, and it wasn’t even 2 yet, there was just no stopping her at this point. I swear she was blind to the length of the line, she just got in it and stood, stoically and determined, as we inched forward, with the warm sun blazing down on us and feeling hotter by the minute. People kept coming and queued up behind us. As I am not as heroic as she…I mean, the sandwiches are awesome, but not like a double brat at the Charcoal Grill in
My last joking around was to tell her I was not that hungry after standing out in the sun and could we go somewhere else – or I can’t eat a whole sandwich, so let’s share one. She’s normally happy to share, in fact that’s what we did the last time we came, but today, in a no-nonsense tone, no more happy as a lark and laughing, with the same steel gleam of an executioner, she said “I’m eating my OWN sandwich and you eat what you want!”
Turns out we were inside at a table in less than 30 minutes. We ordered a medium fat for me, a lean for Opal, a side of coleslaw and fries, and orange juice and a diet Coke. Believe it or not, we got the same guy who waited on us a year ago—the one who was so helpful bringing us extra bread and not rude as some of the books said to expect here….and again he was as nice and helpful as could be. If you make it to Montreal one day, this play is truly worth a visit – you will be amazed – it’s a small room with several picnic type tables (about 8) that seat 8 and they are all constantly full. In the front is a counter for take out orders --- there is another line for that (tho not as long as eat-in line) and constant activity from customers there! It is a bustling place--the definitive definition of a totally successful mom and pop operation – for about 70 years I think!
Stella and I were seated side by side, with another couple sitting across from us, and then another couple at the end, facing each other. With some people, you feel comfortable striking up a conversation right away. After all, you are in close quarters, looking at each other. But I didn’t like the looks of the lady who sat across from me…I pegged as being the snooty type...and sure enough, after I dutifully took a picture of our lunch for the dedicated readers of my blog and put my camera away, she leaned over to her husband and whispered, “He took a picture!.....it’s ONLY a sandwich!” Fortunately for her, I was momentarily distracted and did not pay attention to her as i was already aware of her rudeness..... as you all know, I have a charming way with cranky old ladies and would have told her i was observing the native eating habits as she was good at knocking their fries off the plate and dropping around the table and when eating other things she disdained the use of the fork - and he had catsup all over his polo shirt, but I restrained as there was a nice French couple to my right (and probably lots more).
Some advice: 1) If you can, go shishi BEFORE you go in – there is only a single seat BR!! 2) We like cole slaw that’s creamy with mayo and if shredded carrots or raisins or pineapple bits have been added, all the better. The kind they serve here is straight cabbage, kinda vinegary..in fact, looks like it’s been pickled and flavored with herbs. So if you like creamy cole slaw, do NOT order it here. 3) Order the medium fat. It is juicier and tastier than lean, even tho it may not be as healthy. After all …how often are you going to have it? 4) The French fries here rival the smoked meat….it great! So be sure to order some. 5) No matter how tempting it is to jump over into the shorter take out line, stay the course and eat in. There is nothing like having the freshly sliced beef, still warm, placed in front of you. Last time, we shared a sandwich and consumed it right away. But this time, since Stella decided she wanted the WHOLE thing, she learned that the quality of the meat diminishes once it gets cold….just like a malasada. You gotta eat it hot, or it’s not very good. By the time she managed to munch away on the first half of her sandwich (well, she’s kind of a slow muncher), the meat on the other half had gotten cold. The fat had congealed…and it didn’t look or taste as appetizing. 6) If there’s 3 of you (or 2 big eaters), consider ordering a plate of the meat and a side of bread. Then you can make your own sandwiches, and it will cost less than ordering 3 sandwiches. Now if you ever go to Schwartz’s, you’ve got all the information you need!
After Schwartz’s we caught a bus back to our hotel and readied for a short afternoon siesta. Opal was going to read the paper and her book first – but before long, I heard soft purring noises drifting over from her side of the bed that meant she was already in Z land.
When we woke up the sun was gone and replaced with clouds and rain. Boooooo! But by the time we stepped out for dinner, it had stopped raining tho the ground was wet and it was a bit chillier. We found the Cantonese restaurant a block away that we had enjoyed a lot during our last visit. The place was full of locals, and like any good Chinese restaurant, the din was deafening! We had beef with chow fun, and eggplant with chicken. Both were very good! Now we’re back in our room, getting ready for bed.
2008 May 18 Sunday
I went looking for coffee around 10 and we were ready to go around 11 after Opal was pau with her hair washing, etc. It was another beautiful day…great for a casual walkabout. We first took the bus up to the Italie Petit area to find a place called Wilensky’s that is supposed to have “to die for” fried bologna sandwiches on a bagel. Drats! It was closed. A couple of young girls were parked in front of the doorway, taking advantage of the location to hold their version of a garage sale. So we wandered the neighborhood and found a delightful little neighborhood café with about 4 tables on the sidewalk and one was empty = our rule = we were meant to eat there. They had excellent café au lait and a simple breakfast menu of omelets, bagels, and crepes. We both settled on crepes with cheese, ham and eggs (the two eggs were laid on top of the crepes with the ham and cheese folded inside – sunny side up, like two eyes smiling at us). On the side were some tossed greens and herb spiced home fries. We both agreed that it was excellent breakfast…in fact, we were so hungry that we dived right in and were halfway done before we remembered the camera! So sorry, no picture…oh well…..
When we left I asked about Wilensky’s and the cook agreed, “to die for” fried bologna sandwiches and but not open on Sunday.
We then waddled a bit more thru what used to be (50-60 years ago) one of THE neighborhoods of French money, not the rich rich, but upper middle class. Very beautiful, tree-lined, fully leaved huge old trees and large grand houses, maybe a bit frayed from age but still grand in terms of design and architecture. I was able to snap one of them (it was actually hard to get a clear picture thru all the leafy trees) and one of a neighborhood church that spoke of a once monied neighborhood, in the shadows of
We ended up on
At Sainte Catherine we got off and got ready to see what was described in Fodor’s as another fine shopping street . . . .alas, it too had fallen on hard times. A very few nice stores but mostly seedy places in between now. We hastened into the Hyatt and the mall that was housed within. We found a few delightful stores, including a large food court area. At one kiosk, I found my Beavertail! What a pleasant surprise, after the disappointment in
Back in the room I shut my eyes for a bit while Opal was kept busy with the last minute packing.
Then it was up and out the door to a Chinese buffet that we found last time. It was full of local, Chinese families eating Sunday dinner. So it had to be good, right?!! We would give it an “A” for their a huge selection of dishes, but as for quality and taste, only a “C.” By the time we finished eating and headed out the door, it had started to rain. Good thing our hotel was just on the next block. Back to the room and off to bed. Tomorrow’s an early up for our flight to
The blog is now pau…..latest pictures posted. Thank you for keeping up with our adventures!
Opal and Earl
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