2008 March Japan

THURSDAY 20 MARCH 2008 KOBE

photos can be found at webshots

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The noon JAL flight to Kansai International in Osaka, JP was delayed about 45 min but when we got underway we were impressed by the difference in JAL and our airlines. Sure the seats in economy are just as cramped but the attention of the flight attendants was superb – ever courteous and watchful of our needs – and the food was good, compared to what US airlines used to feed us. I had the curry with all the side dishes and Stella had the chicken.

Both were attractively presented on a tray with little individual side dishes.

One difference I noted right away is that in addition to the normal restrictions during takeoff and landing, you can’t use electronics including laptops during the entire flight (which wasn’t necessarily bad). Opal got a little whiny after 5 hours but I was more or less happy the whole 8 hours. The ride on the 747 was smooth and the high ceilings were appreciated…and landings on these jumbo jets are always better relative to other planes.

We arrived at Kansai International about 4pm on Friday (21^st) and after luggage pickup and customs (very smooth), we were on our MK shuttle headed for Kobe (think Super Shuttle, only a more luxurious ride), about a 90 min ride (we were last after stops to drop several others at their houses) to our hotel across from the Shin Kobe RR station. Even tho it was a Friday, prime traffic time, we sailed along without a hitch. It was mostly freeways to the Kobe area. The cost was only $23 each. And of course there is no tipping in Japan. (We tried but were emphatically told “no.”)

After arriving at the Crowne Plaza, we were met by courteous staff who practically jump to help as tho we were traveling royalty. The lobby was mammoth and walled with beautiful marble. Check-in was a breeze and we were fortunate to receive a free upgrade to the executive floor/rooms. We have two separate rooms – the front room is a combination sitting room and office, complete with a wall of cubed shelving, a large L shaped desk with ample room for our laptop and etc AND a Dell PC with 24” monitor and a printer/fax/scanner. Then there is a separate bedroom with a queen bed and a nice view to the west overlooking the city lights and beyond that, the piers of the harbor. Opal really scored as she has us paying only $130 a nite for all this! Okay, back to the check in process - the person wheeling the luggage cart of four suitcases (a month on the road) and our 2 carryon’s was about the same size as Stella and although we both felt compelled to lend a hand, her eyes told us to back off, even tho she remained impeccably courteous. And, of course no tipping.

After quickly freshening up, we were on our way up to the top (37^th floor) lounge for complimentary pupu’s and an open bar, including Asahi, Heineken, all manner of additives and all the standards (scotch, vodka, etc) plus several specials, like a lichee liqueur that was quite good – I was allowed to have a mere taste to check it out. And the view was great with all the lights out to the east and the mountains immediately on our left with some twinkling lights peeking out of the woods. We were back in our room about midnight Hawaii time (I think it was around 9pm Kobe time before we hit the bed).

SATURDAY 22 MARCH 2008 KOBE

I was up about 5 and up at the 37^th floor again around 645 – Crowne Executive Club exclusive lounge. The day was breaking perfect, no clouds!

Hooked up the wireless after a bit of diddling around, had several cups of coffee and lo and behold, in comes Opal waddling into the club, at 730!!!!!!!!!! Believe me, this in NOT normal. The same buffet breakfast they served us there costs $25 downstairs at the Terrace Room, and it was delicious! Surprisingly, there was no rice – a yummy cream corn soup, broccoli and sweet potatoes, veal sausage and bacon, scrambled eggs (about the best I’ve ever had) a great fresh salad greens bowl with tomato, onions, etc to mix in, fresh fruits, and a variety of breads ….croissants, butter rolls, tomato/basil rolls, a chewy mochi bun that Opal liked, French bread, and a homemade bread to die for – all very fresh. Also, juices and a coffee machine offering espresso or latte, or regular or weak coffee, teas, and a variety of cheeses and jams; and some vodka for the bloody mary crowd.

I tried several times to get on the blog but no luck – still working on that problem. I’ll just keep notes and add them in later.

Back to the room to load up our trip stuff, maps, camera, etc. then we were off to Shin Kobe station, right by our hotel, and the bullet train to Kyoto. Once there, we found that Kyoto Station was like a mini city – it was huge! We scouted and settled on buying a day pass on the bus system to go around Kyoto, not realizing that the nice weather and it being Saturday had caused 1 million people – or so it seemed – to also get the bus pass, to also get in our lines, to also go to our shrines, auwe!

After several times waiting for bus and etc, etc, we made it to Sanjusangendo Hall and the Heian Shrine and went thru the Gion district (see memoirs of a geisha? Then you have seen a hint of this area.) We spent a lot of time merely walking around the station – 9 floor dept store, a hundred restaurants or more, shops of all description, and especially fun were the bento stores and sweet shops! We walked the gardens of the Heian Shrine and by the time we were back “on the street” the lines were too long for the Golden and Silver Temples so we got on the next bus back to the station .. . besides that, we were beat and hot…. It was 74 that day!!!! And normal is around 60. In fact it seems global warming has another victim = the cherry blossoms are coming really early but are they ever beautiful!

I’ve noticed that in almost any country except the US when you buy things, even of little value, they take such meticulous care in wrapping them. . . noticed this in England, Sweden, etc, etc….but never moreso than in JP!!!!

Back at the Kyoto Station after wandering thru floors of food markets and restaurants we finally settled on curry udon for our late/lunch early/dinner. Chewy and wonderful!

Then back on the Shinkansen Bullet for the ride back to Kobe = it goes so fast one has to avoid looking close range or you get dizzy; the seats are nice, it is steel on steel and super quiet and fast, very fast!!! And neat and clean and no graffiti or messes anywhere! Same with the stations, neat and clean and they are super busy . . . quite amazing.

Arriving in Kobe we walked thru the covered passage to our hotel, took our stuff to the room and went right up for some drinks and perhaps some pupu’s and sat and watched the blinking lights of the city. Opal was not in such a great mood so I was unable to test any of the liqueurs this time. So, down to our room on the 31^st floor and hopefully up for an early start in good weather . . . for our sightseeing venture around Kobe.

SUNDAY 23 MARCH 2008 KOBE

We were in the club having our buffet by 8am; the day not as perfect but the rain should hold off until late afternoon. Today we are headed for the pedestrian shopping streets and Chinatown. After a short bus trip to Sannomiya Station we were off to wander thru the Daiei Department Store….a 9 story monster. Instead of walking the streets over to the first shopping street we used the underground shopping streets – a rabbit’s warren of endless variety of a seemingly infinite array of shops and restaurants! So much fun to just walk along looking at the stores and looking at menu pictures and seemingly always we would forget and walk down the wrong side of the sidewalk.

The pedestrian streets were a continuation of the same…..every shop name never seen before….seemingly every shop with something or things unique and always the parade of young Japanese women dressed casual and like fashion models, either with one or two or with their guys. 2 of every 3 wearing boots. Every so often there would be a momma and a poppa (like me and Opal) waddling along. And the restaurants – I’ve concluded that being a barbaric westerner I have no sense of what constitutes a good restaurant beyond the quality of the pictures they have outside. But for me this is a giant step forward – when I was here 50 years ago there were no pictures and not even a little English, so you went in and made gestures and they would catch on and take you to the kitchen and you would point, make chicken or pig or cow noise and they would nod the appropriate answers……and western dress on women something you never saw unless the once in a rare while Tokyo. Stella seemed content to just goop the shops and people and chat as we walked along.

At one point we went into a shop called “Q” for a bite of lunch. I had the udon set with a mini tempura rice bowl. Opal fell for the wakame udon. Then it was off and walking again.

Toward the end of the second seemingly mile long pedestrian shopping street, Opal found two $1 (100 Yen) shops across each other on the wide walk. She lit up like she was just given a 100,000 and turned loose in a Nordstrom’s shoe store. I told her I would mosey on down and find a place to sit and wait for her as one has learned about Opal and her $1 shops in any currency!

One thing I have found = it’s nearly impossible to find a diet coke or to order one – the word diet is the legislature here – so it would be like ordering a senate tea in Hawaii or similar. In fact, the can says “no calorie” but that doesn’t work; there are vending machines everywhere with every known variety of drink, but no diet cokes. Finally in a machine in Chinatown I found a can of “zero”. “No sugar?” only brings wide eyes of wonderment why a barbarian would want no sugar in his coke.

When I was here 50 years ago it was a mere 12 years after ww2 and I would wonder at their lack of modern conveniences, etc, etc, etc. Now, 50 years later, I wonder at the state of barbarism in Hawaii compared to Japan…they are like century ahead in every aspect. Even their Wendy’s is nicer! Although I won’t go in one, I’ve been eating JP all the way….except breakfast, which oddly in this very JP oriented hotel, is haole…..but with the best scrambled eggs and sweet potato’s, etc. I digress. As is normal for the elderly.

Okay, after Opal bought a large bag of stuff we jumped our bus back to the hotel and then decided to eat somewhere in the area. To our huge surprise the hotel is sitting on 5 floors of restaurants and shops – there are about 20 restaurants ranging from a Wendy’s to a Kobe beef place. After much wandering and discussion and looking at pictures that only served to increase our pangs of hunger, we went into a place called Katsu-ya .....specializing in all things katsu. We had a combination of shrimp, chicken, asparagus, sweet potatoe and lotus root…all coated and fried with a light crisp katsu batter. Don’t laugh but the second best part was the sauce – they give you a little bowl with a pestle to grind the fresh sesame seeds before you add the katsu sauce ……….mixed together, it was ono!!!!!!!!!!!!! And we’ve discovered a new to us variety of sesame dressing that is so ono.

Afterward, up to the club for our tasting and viewing…and of course, a couple of pu pu’s…it’s our new routine.. and then off to bed.

MONDAY 24 MARCH 2008 KOBE

Same O – up and down to the club, but now a little later after all the walking of Sunday I was totally tired…..about 8 we got there. We had breakfast, checked email, news, etc and headed over to Shin Kobe to catch the city loop bus for Harbor Land…..an area of, yes, more shops and more restaurants and a small kiddie oriented amusement park. Turned out to be just that – really fun restaurants and a wild number of character, everything known to us and then some, shops with the pens, paper, purses, gums, candies….and I never tire of looking…if I let myself go I would have suitcase full for everyone I know.

Still no luck with ordering a diet coke so I’m filling up on green tea – no problem, everyone knows green tea!

We suckered for a ride up the Kobe tower and got little else but an elevator ride.

We jumped on the loop bus to Chinatown and wandered around for awhile. We were impressed with how clean it was. If we weren’t headed for China we probably would have stayed longer and had some dim sum but we merely walked around gooping at the foods and some of the shops…..and then back to catch the loop bus to our hotel as the sun was slowly setting.

Back at the hotel we dropped our stuff and started wandering the bottom floors of restaurants – I wanted to go to the Katsu-ya again or maybe one that made those sort of pancake things. Instead we stumbled upon a tofu place that made it’s own tofu and noodles etc, AND, they have a tofu buffet – at least 75 dishes served in earthenware bowls and platters that the Japanese are known for – very attractive spread. Some of the dishes we remember are agedashi tofu (delicious – Opal and 3 servings!), nishime, gobo, some green veggies cooked in wasabi (Opal nearly choked on that one), teri-saba, karaage chicken, grilled steak strips, zen zai, chichidango, a garlic pasta, cold udon, curry, oden, beef omelet, a sort of spanich rice omelet, egg plant, oden (some fishcake stew) and many other dishes that I can’t remember. You get two hours to eat and then you must go J

The other thing we discovered in our hotel, the very bottom floor is a small supermarket and a mammoth $1 store – so after dinner Opal was on a b-line for the store and I went to the room to try and figure out how to get this onto my blog.

TUESDAY 25 MARCH KOBE

Our luck holds as we have another nice day. Today we are planning a slow day – down to Sammamiya Station to look at shops and over to a huge department store called SOGO. This was a fun visit, not only just the store but the food booths on the basement floor – 75+ food stalls – katsu to strawberry shortcake to fish to kobe steaks, etc, etc. it’s nearly impossible to walk thru and not think ‘eateateat’ ! other neat foods – about 12 variety of what I call ‘cone sushi’ and endless variety of veggies and fish and meats tempura, fresh cuts of all known meats and chicken, and fish cake – I did know there were so many variations, and an infinite array of mochi, and sausages, I think almost as many as one would see in Bavaria…..and the sweets and bakery/patisserie stuff…..yep, eateateat

Another neat find was at the Sannomiya overpass entrance – a Seiko clock that chimed the time with music from IT’S A SMALL WORLD with about 50 or so little world children who twirled and so forth…so neat!

We were back at the hotel by afternoon where I finally was able to order a diet coke, well, sort of = there is a Wendy’s and it was easy to order, at least, a diet Pepsi and it had ice!! Then down to the room for a catnap and work on getting my photos ready for the blog.

At the moment we are catching up on news, like the eruption on the big island. . . . the films here were pretty spectacular. . . . and starting to pack for the move from the hotel to the ship tomorrow.

One of the nice touches of the hotel is that the very moment you touch the up or down button it lights the elevator that will be coming, so you can mosey over to it and wait – when it is close, the light begins to blink. And, for us, there is an English version paper on our door every morning by 5. I know my good friend Alan will be laughing at me about these touches as he stays in very nice hotels all the time - so is very used to all these amenities . . . . for us, this and the PJs, robes and slippers, toothpaste and toothbrush every day, it’s really cool! They even provide a razor . . . . albeit the throw away kind.

WEDNESDAY 26 MARCH EMBARKING STATENDAM

I’m still rushing to get this ready to post today before we board….so I’m in the club having coffee and typing and TRYING to remember things. So far, the day is overcast and dreary. We expect to board around 2pm or so and the Holland America MS Statendam will sail for Nagasaki at about 11pm tonight.

As we get ready to leave Kobe it is very clear that we will return to JP….it is now second in my places to go, behind France. France is only slightly ahead tho. JP has leaped ahead of Germany, Austria, England, Ireland and Scotland and even NYC. . . . . as places that I next want to visit.

2008 February Amtrak

Preceding our trip on Amtrak we went to Santa Rosa to visit Kim and her family. After arriving on Friday, Feb 1 we went and picked up Desi at her kindergarten and then home to wait for Mommy after work. After some quick packing and changing (Desi would be spending the night with us at our motel) we were off to Betty's Fish and Chips. With the exception of a chippie on Lissom Road in London, we have found no better fish and chips than Betty's in all of the US or Europe! And they were great yet again, on the wet and dreary Friday night.

After a night with Desi both Opal and I are in dire need of both a good nap and a chiropractor (we have to constantly contort to allow Desi to whirlygig around the bed). We had a light breakfast and off to ballet. Last Christmas Desi had her first Nutcracker Suite experience as an angel. We then went to another of our favorites in Santa Rosa, Sushi Hana in Sebastopol. They not only have really good sushi but on Saturdays they make an endless variety of veggies and fish and oysters all made up tempura style and oh so cheap! We have massive pig outs!

Saturday night we saw "27 Dresses" and I know the girls all enjoyed it very much!

Sunday it was breakfast at IHOP and then on to IKEA in Emeryville area. Opal was then off with a childhood friend who now lives in that area while we (Kim, Russ, Desi and I) went off to a pub in Berkeley to watch the last several minutes of the Super Bowl, the only minutes that mattered, while enjoying some decent pub food. The kids then headed home to Santa Rosa after dropping me at our motel in Berkeley.

On Feb 4 we were scheduled to go from Emeryville (SF) CA to Chicago on the California Zephyr. However, after several delays and cancellations because of avalanches in the Donner Pass area of the Sierra's, we changed our reservations and flew to LA where we got on the Southwest Chief to Chicago. You can find some pictures at my webshots page The trip offered many beautiful vistas of some of the areas we had driven in the fall of 2007, e.g. NM and CO. The views, this time, were in 'black and white' as most of the areas had snow. We left LA about 9 hours later (5pm) than we would have left had we been able to take the train out of Emeryville (8am) - yet we arrived in Chicago at about the same time. Altho the bedroom might look small it was very very comfy during the day, offering ample room to stretch out for naps and also to sit and watch the scenery roll by. During the evening, the room had two beds (bunk beds) and a sitting chair. The bathroom is very small (even smaller than the stalls on a plane) but for the convenience of having one in your room, it was well worth it. Taking a shower was a bit rough when the train was speeding down the tracks but it was nice and easy if we were going slow and best yet, stopped. Opal (Stella) said she half expected me to come bursting out of the shower judged by the pounding back and forth on all the walls. Each evening when we went to dinner (or whenever preferred), we rang for the car attendant to have our room converted to sleeping configuration, and vice versa in the morning. The bottom bed was a little wider than the top berth, and being the ever thoughtful gentleman, I figured I would surprise Opal and let her have the luxury of the roomier accommodation. So that first night, I clambered up the ladder to the top. That turned out to be a mistake, as I found myself contorted like a pretzel in a space that was barely wider than the overhead rack on a plane. With the low ceiling, I could barely untwist myself to come back down. Worst yet, instead of being appreciative or concerned, Opal thought it was hysterically funny and laughed and laughed. I don't know how she can find such outlandish humor at my expense! More detailed information about the routing and the dining and rooms can be found at the Amtrak site. Food on Amtrak is still nothing to brag about and some meals were served with plastic dinnerware. You can click on the Food to see sample menus. All meals were included with the bedroom option at no extra cost - except the alcohol. You make reservations for lunch and dinner and breakfast is first come. Our sleeper was located next to the dining car so we had a very short walk,...and each morning we had fresh coffee and a newspaper at the room....or juice if preferred. We arrived in Chicago Wednesday as it was snowing and windy, just a little behind schedule. We were lucky to catch a Redcap assistant with a cart so we were driven to the baggage area from our bedroom car ( a very very long walk in very very cold temps) and when the baggage came (much faster and easier than airports) he loaded it on with us and delivered us to a taxi. We stayed in a very nice euro-style boutique hotel one block off the loop and along the Magnificent mile. The hotel had recently been purchased by Holiday Inn Express. The best part, tho, is that it was across the street from a Trader Joe's (one of Opal's favorite places) and, luckily for Earl, a Starbucks. Nearby were lots of good restaurants, like the fondue restaurant called Melting Pot, Rainforest, the original Uno, Red Lobster and many others of the same ilk. However, we headed out in the snow and sleet and freezing wind for....what else? Earl's favorite.... Chicago hotdogs at Portillo's! See pictures. After eating Opal was off to Trader Joe's and Earl ducked into Starbucks for a paper and venti latte. The next morning we picked up our 4by (Jeep Liberty) and drove the 3 hours up to Madison - all the way it was clear and dry roads surrounded by snowy and beautiful farms - scenes ala Currior and Ives. We would visit Opal's niece and nephew and their two little hapa boys. These two boys are unofficially adopted grandsons of Opal, Owen (top) and Leon
and she gets so elated and glows so effusively when we are headed in their direction. In Madison Opal experienced the first ever real cold weather, ice cycles, piled high snow, slush roads. I think over the four days we were there it never did get over freezing and one day the hi was either 0 or a minus 3. With all that "indoor" time Opal was in hog heaven - cooking for the kids (she got their favorites at Trader Joe's), playing with them in the basement, and she got hooked on Wii!!! big time. She wanted to run right out and get one for us, after she knocked Earl out in boxing and beat him at bowling - but alas, one can't find them anywhere and they cost way more than she realized...the console is just the beginning of the costs! PART 2: MILWAUKEE TO PORTLAND Our luck continued...the freeway to Milwaukee was dry and clear freeway, and only took an hour and half. We turned in the car and they dropped us at the Amtrak Station. About 5, one hour late, we boarded the Empire Builder on Feb 11 and settled into our bedroom for the cross country trip to Portland. The first day was a relaxing day; Opal did a lot of reading and I watched the snowy scenic North Dakota and eastern Montana - translation, flat, white and boring! The only interesting times were when we went thru and or stopped in one of the small towns - too look at the shops, people walking around, trucks and tractors moving snow, etc. However, that was soon to change, dramatically!

On our second night from Milwaukee, you could hear the wind screeching along the windows of the last car where our sleeper was located. As I looked out at Browning, Montana, you could sense how cold it was, not even knowing that it was -19! At 6pm it was full on night and even the lights from the few street lamps were forlorn in the frigid, bitter cold wind. The few people on the streets were shuffling along, bent by the cold and wind. There were few lights from the businesses near the AMTRAK depot…the inevitable bar sign, a dimly lit motel sign and little else. It was a scene reminiscent of the ’30 Days of Night’ movie with Josh Hartnett.

In our bedroom on the sleeper, we were getting ready for the walk down to the dining car for dinner, just sitting in the dark and looking out as the train lurched a little and then began to roll out of town. Little changed, the frigid wind howled a bit louder, seemingly trying to hold us in the town. . . . as if a warning. On the edge of town, there were even fewer lights and people as we left the small Montana town near Glacier National Park.

I was telling a bit of the story from the above movie to Opal. I was mesmerized, by the similarities. The dark as the sun set for 30 days in Barrow, Alaska; the bitter winds and cold, the few people, the street lights, almost dimmed by the cold. A sense of foreboding. With a crackle from the speaker and then a booming voice we were told that the 7pm reservations were being seated. I glanced at the schedule and noted that we were running about 2 hours behind schedule. We rang for the attendant to make up our bedroom to the sleeping version and left.

We walked the aisles of the 7 cars to the dining room as the train began picking up speed. It’s always easier to walk when the train is going slow and best when stopped. Arriving at the dining room we were seated in my “must” position of facing the way we were going with Opal by the window. No use looking at the menu, there would be a steak with choice of potato, salad, roll; a build your own cheeseburger (angus, turkey or veggie), cheese and bbq sauce; a game hen with same sides; a couple specials (salmon, lasagna). The salmon was out so I ordered the steak with baked potato and Opal had the game hen. I don’t recall who our seating partners were as neither spoke, so Opal and I mumbled with each other. The train was really rocking now so we decided to skip the ever present cheesecake, ice cream, etc., and headed back to the bedroom.

The train was now up to speed in excess of 90mph so we did our usual bouncing and swaying along the aisle walking routine. At each of the car connections, 4 coaches, one lounge, then 2 more coaches and finally our sleeper at the end….one has to push a big bar that opens the door to leave a car and then repeat that action to enter the next car. Although covered, somewhat protected, each connection “space” was very cold with a smattering of snow at times.

No sooner did we sit down and start looking out the windows than we came to a screeching, lurching stop in the middle of nowhere. If we had been in the cars walking the aisles we might have fallen. It did not cause us to lose our seating but you could sense the strong pull forward. We looked out. One could only see about 10 very dim yards from the train, sensing tall shapes of evergreens, seemingly lurking and watching us, from the total darkness and the continuing howl of the wind and the sensed bitterness of the cold.

After an uncomfortable time, wondering what happened, the speaker crackled, “this is the conductor, we experienced a trespassing event and we have stopped to await the arrival of the authorities. We expect them to arrive soon. As we have more information, we will share it with you.”

After some hurried old man calculations, I estimated we were about 25 miles out of Browning. Far enough that we would die if we had to try and walk back thru the snow and wind. Visions jumped to life in my mind of wolves on the prowl, perhaps a puma, watching us, from the edges of the darkness. At least the grizzlies will still be hibernating!

Then my imagination kicked into high gear: a trespasser? I began to think out loud about the puma’s, the wolves, the dark, desolation of Barrow, Alaska…..the similarities, They must have come on in Browning and now the conductor has found they do not have a ticket nor the means to pay for one – but why an emergency stop? Opal demanded that I think to myself.

We get several more announcements, all of the same ilk, there was a trespassing incident, the authorities were investigating and when they were finished we could proceed…but not to worry the train was fine. Of course this was cause to worry, when bureaucrats tell you not to worry. This scene played out over the next couple hours during which time I pieced it together. Having seen the earlier mentioned movie helped me as I put together what was happening in real time.

I surmised that there was a person who did sneak on and at a predisposed time showed themselves and the operational procedures of the train kicked in – emergency stop, authorities, etc. HOWEVER, the stoppage of the train was to allow for others to sneak on! That explained two things: 1) the conductor mentioned they had checked the back of the train (we were the last car!) and it was fine. At the time I thought this was both odd and incongruent to having a trespasser. And 2) it explained the subtle noises, scratches, bumps from the back of the train that I heard after the emergency stop. I shared these ideas with Opal but she said to stop it – she was going to shower and climb into her top bunk. I was going to caution her further but decided not to scare the doodoo out of her. She insisted that we lock our door and pull the curtain tight. Normally, we had been sleeping with the door open and curtain drawn.

I sat in the dark bedroom trying to look thru the black, beyond our 10 yard limits, into the night; listening for odd sounds, trying to piece together the events with the announcements. Then the crackle and the announcement that we were going to conduct some forward and backward rolling, and evaluation of the wheels. And they now tell us we had hit a vehicle. But now, the authorities had cleared us to proceed. This was four hours after the “event”!!

Opal emerged happy that she had been able to shower in a non-moving situation. The shower is really an experience in a fast moving train, but I digress. I repeated the announcement to her with only a few of my personal interpretations – of which I was now even more certain. In my mind, trespassing and hitting a vehicle were not synonymous. Yet, if one assumed there was a fatality that would explain the long time we were stopped, the presence of so many authorities, and gave credence to the emergency stop. Trespassing? Perhaps that is the AMTRAK definition of someone entering their space and getting hit.

After much thought (in silence and kept to myself) and remembering the comments about the back of the train being okay, and the noises I had heard, I was convinced there was more going on than we were told about. By now it was after midnight!!!!!

We tucked into bed after I had discretely shaped some shaving cream into a small cross at our door. I made sure Opal had her safety web in place on the top bunk and changed my bedding so that my head was away from the door. I then got serious about solving the puzzle, in the middle of the night, in the middle of nowhere, a bitterly cold night only getting colder, with an even louder whistle from the wind along our windows. After about an hour, I sensed shuffling figures go by our bedroom, slight pausing, but no noises at the door – of course – they saw the cross – and, these were NOT the usual talking and/or laughing figures of ‘human’ passengers. The train was now traveling at breakneck speed as we were now about 6 hours behind schedule and they would try to make up time…..or is it that the engineer was aware of the intruders and was trying to get to ‘civilization’ and the rising sun before it was too late. When Opal noted that she was being jostled around far more that usual, I gave the making up time as the answer. But I knew the real answer was a race to daylight!

I discretely checked my PDA (time) and the schedule and figured out we were now hours in the middle of nowhere . . . Glacier National Park . . . a perfect plan …. Get the train stopped by sacrificing a come back alive werewolf, while getting others on while the authorities were ‘investigating’!!

I felt drowsy but like in the movies I knew better than to fall asleep. When you fall asleep, that’s when ‘they’ get you, everyone knows that. I worked and reworked my theory and I was certain the Engineer was speeding to daylight, to save us from the menace on the train. The two coaches near us were mostly empty and our sleeper was not full. It’s obvious, ‘they’ shuffled’ our sleeper and there were too few “meals” so they had worked their way forward to the crowded cars and more people. My lids were getting very heavy and it had now been quiet in our aisle for quite awhile.

I was aware of a dim light at the windows. We were nearing daybreak. I had fallen asleep and yet I was still alive!

I quietly got up and got dressed and cautiously walked from end to end in our sleeper car. All was well. I removed any evidence of my cross at the foot of our door, didn’t want to alarm Opal, and sat in the chair by the window. The engineer had really pushed the train hard as we were entering the outskirts of Spokane and we had picked up more than an hour. But more importantly ……………..

THE SUN WAS RISING ABOVE THE MORNING CLOUDS!!! WE WERE SAVED!!!

The facts as discovered while waiting for our bus in Spokane:

A pickup truck lost control on the black ice of a crossing and slid into the racing train. There were two fatalities.

The emergency stop created several flat spots on the wheels of the last 4 cars on the train – the lounge, 2 coaches and our sleeper. Because the tires were so cold the collision caused crystallization and a few cracked wheels. Further the wheels had suffered what they call ‘clamming’ which is a very dangerous condition. All of the above can be causes of a derailment.

Because of the collision a cable on the last car had come loose and had been swaying in the wind while the authorities were on board.

The authorities were the state police, county police and the coroner.

The last four cars were deemed unsafe to proceed.

Busses were ordered (2) and we were all on board and leaving Spokane around 9am. We arrived in Portland after a 7 hour bus ride.

In the meantime, the front of the train had been cleared and it proceeded on to Seattle about 30 minutes after arrival in Spokane. No mention was made, whatsoever, about the condition of that part of the train, any anomalies, etc, etc….. all very hush hush.

We were sitting in front of two loud talking women in their 70’s who read all the signs for us, had the most inane discussions I’ve ever heard and rerererepeated each other endlessly!!! The were critics of the bus driver but always settled on making note that she had been hired to get us safely there and we should be thankful – I heard that statement or a variant of, for 7 hours! They were so loud and inane that when we tried to play Scrabble Opal could not concentrate and refused to play. Sleep was impossible.

Some younger kids tried to have the train crew play a DVD on the bus system, Labyrinth, but when they asked if anyone objected, a lady to our right who was busy reading her bible the whole trip, objected.

You decide what happened between the dinner hour and our arrival into Spokane….and thereafter?

Final Fact”

Opal has declared she has had enough train travel for awhile!

After our arrival in Portland, finally, we spent our time mostly in Lloyd Center, only a few short blocks from our hotel. The weather, altho chilly, was conducive to our walking to and from the hotel....maybe a half mile or so.

We were up at 0500 and flying out of Portland at 8. As far as I can tell, alone!